CHANEL MAKE UP for HAUTE COUTURE 2012-13
" Philips says of his approach, which focused on familiar makeup elements—a smoky eye, an eyeliner and blush application, a French manicure—made modern.
Starting with a clean base, the face painter concentrated most of his attention on lids, crafting a "blue/gray metallic eye" that began with a dusting of Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft-Touch Eyeshadow in Furtif that Philips swept across the upper lash line through the crease and dragged underneath the lower lash line.
To that, he applied a thick, "bulky" scrawl of black liner, which he topped off with a few swipes of Chanel Inimitable Mascara in Black and an etching of its Kohl Liner in Clair, a pale beige, that he traced along the inner rims to open the eyes a bit. Blending a swirl of Chanel Joues Constraste Blush in Rose Initial onto the apples of models' cheeks, albeit "a bit higher than usual," Philips finished the face with a neutral pout that he framed with its Lip Liner in Natural and filled in with its Rouge Allure lipstick in Evanescente.
The show's theme was best realized through Sam McKnight's silver-lined, forties-era hair nets and the nails, where Philips took the idea of the classic French manicure and gave it a touch of now, thus ushering in Chanel's first foray into fashion's continued embrace of the nail art revival. "When we were playing around with the idea of doing a nail polish, we evoked the idea of using two shades on one nail," Philips explained, employing a discontinued chrome color that launched in 2007 to outline the entire nail bed, rather than just the tip, which had been lacquered with two coats of May, a melon varnish from the Spring 2012 show. "[New vintage] is…preparation for something that could last," Lagerfeld explained to our intrepid runway reporter following the show, which we'll take as a sign that nail art isn't going anywhere anytime soon. At least now we have a new design to challenge our manicurist with.
Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY SERUM
VITALUMIÈRE AQUA Ultra-light Skin Perfecting Makeup
ÉCLAT LUMIÈRE Highlighter Face Pen
CORRECTEUR PERFECTION Long Lasting Concealer
POUDRE UNIVERSELLE LIBRE Natural Finish Loose Powder
OMBRE ESSENTIELLE Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Furtif – Autumn 2012 collection
STYLO YEUX WATERPROOF Long-lasting Eyeliner in Noir Intense – Autumn 2012 collection
LE CRAYON KHÔL Intense Eye Pencil in Clair
INIMITABLE WATERPROOF Volume-Length-Curl-Separation Mascara in Noir
RECOURBE CILS DE CHANEL Precision Eyelash Curler
JOUES CONTRASTE Powder Blush in Rose Initial – Autumn 2012 collection
ROUGE ALLURE Luminous Satin Lip Colour in Evanescente – New shade ROUGE ALLURE 2012
LE CRAYON LEVRES Precision Lip Definer in Natural
LE VERNIS Nail Colour in May – Spring 2012 collection
LE VERNIS Nail Colour in Silver (Limited Edition from 2007)
all photo bt: vincent lappartient.